My Mom: The strongest most inspiring woman in my life

I turned my mom on to La Bella Donna Mineral Cosmetics a few years ago just because I thought she'd like it. These days, for health reasons; being a Breast Cancer SURVIVOR, as well as for good skin maintenance, she only uses green cosmetics/skincare. Even though she uses products from a few different green makeup/skincare lines, here's what she had to say about La Bella Donna specifically and a few pics of her applying makeup....just to show you that you don't need a professional to do your makeup all the time...it's easy to get some advise and then do it yourself...:)


"Over ten years ago, my daughter Anita had her first job in make up and she began teaching me about products and more current applications of foundation, powder, blush, eye shadows, mascara, lipsticks and lip liners. I had been using very simple techniques that had not changed all that much since the late 1960s and early 1970s although I was now middle aged, gray and my coloring had naturally changed. I knew I needed a new look. Because Anita had become a professional make up artist, I relied upon her to help me with color and product selection as well as to give me advice about a skin care regimen. Using the techniques I had learned and the palettes that she created for me, I developed a daily make up and skin care routine. As a professor of theater, I knew that I was always “performing” in front of my students and wanted to appear my best. Anita helped me achieve that result.
Over 18 months ago I was diagnosed with bilateral breast cancer. I had done a bit of research about what needed to change in my diet as well as my skin care and cosmetic regimen. Clearly all the literature indicated that there were certain substances to avoid to aid in preventing recurrence. Because my cancers were 95 – 100% hormone receptors, estrogen and progestin were absolutely on the list and I also learned that I should avoid cosmetic products (skin care creams, moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, and make up) containing parabens.
The first thing I did, even before my surgery, was to consult Anita about green or at least paraben-free make up lines she would recommend to replace those that I had been currently using. She took me to the La Bella Donna counter at Bergdorf’s and chose mineral foundation powder, pressed powder, blush, and several eye shadow palettes—one for every day use and one for evening wear—as well as a range of lipstick colors. While the color choices were not extensive, there were enough to give me a variety of looks. The products felt good on my skin, were easy to apply and blend, and still allowed me to feel confident that I looked my best at work as well as when I went out for the evening. I’ve been a customer for this make up line ever since."
Andrea Nouryeh 2010

Article I wrote Last year for Fit and Pregnancy Magazine: They didn't publish it so here it is....

Makeup and Healthy Skin for Mom's to Be by Anita Nouryeh (makeup artist www.anitanouryeh.net)

.

When I started as a professional make up artist, I never thought I'd arrive at using and promoting organic products. But, as they say, "everything happens for a reason," and my reason resulted from my own skincare quest. I have struggled myself for years, searching for the perfect gentle yet hydrating moisturizer to soothe the dry, red, long term after-effects of a second-degree sun burn I got when I was on a trip in Disneyworld at age 8 or 9. There were products that hydrated my skin but had too much fragrance, causing my asthma to act up. There were moisturizers that felt great right after my cleansing regimen but within ten minutes my skin would feel dry again. There were product lines that had so much alcohol in their skincare that my skin would turn bright red. Only a heavy layer of full coverage foundation would tone it down enough to look presentable at work and this inevitably gave way to breakouts. Then finally I caught wind of some other make up artists at work talking about Mineral makeup, specifically a line called La Bella Donna. So I went to investigate. Not only did it look natural and flawless, it was so easy to work with. Then something even more amazing happened, it actually started to help heal the cystic acne spots I'd begun to develop. From then on I was hooked. I've used it in photoshoots and on brides. It photographs beautifully. From there I thought, "I should look for skin care with the same healing properties. It must exist if this stuff does." And it does.

These days we are constantly dieting. Or we are reading new articles about healthy foods to increase our metabolisms or flatten our abs or improve our bone strength. And women, especially pregnant women, are extremely cautious and aware of everything they eat and drink. We take vitamin and mineral supplements, we keep journals or food logs, and we hire nutritionists to help us make better food choices. But we never really stop to think about what we are putting ON our bodies. According to Dr. Mercola, "women who use makeup on a daily basis can absorb almost five pounds of chemicals into their bodies each year" (Mercola.com). That's a little scary when you stop and really think about it. These chemicals, including parabens "have been noted as showing up in breast cancer samples." (Mercola.com)

Just as we have had to learn to read our nutrition facts on the back of our food labels, we must now take note and read the labels on our skin care and cosmetics. We must be aware of the fact that just because the word "mineral" is used to describe the particular product we may be purchasing, this does not mean that there aren't still harmful chemicals used as ingredients as well. Sometimes the word "mineral" can be used to describe how the powder was actually milled in the factory, creating a mineralized texture, not because there are mineral ingredients. Or they can use the word mineral because there is a tiny percentage of a mineral compound such as Titanium Dioxide ( a natural SPF/sunblock) at the very bottom of the ingredients label..

Now, the info I'm providing here can apply to all makeup and skin care users, but I want to focus specifically on the need for pregnant women to maintain as healthy a beauty regimen as possible. So to help you read make up and skin care labels for what to avoid, here are some recommendations to get you started on finding out more about the products you are currently using.

This list of chemicals has been selected from The Environmental Working Group’s website: www.ewg.org . Besides the problems listed here below, the EWG website links some of these chemicals to cancer among other long term affects.

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate-contains Arsenic, lead, heavy metals, causes developmental/ reproductive toxicity

BHA (a carcinogen)

DMDM Hydantoin ( contains formaldihyde)

FD&C Dyes- developmental/reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity

Fragrance- Allergies/immunetoxicity

Oryza Sativa (rice bran oil)- contains pesticides

Polyethylene- organ system toxicity

Parabens including: Butylparaben, Ethylparaben- human skin toxicant, disruption of endocrine system, allergies/immunetoxicity

Talc- contains Abestiform fibers, affects allergies/immunetoxicity

You can find more extensive lists and information at The Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database: (www.ewg.org) It's an incredibly thorough website with a plethora of information about all personal care products.

Now that I've outlined what chemicals to avoid, and given you further resources to investigate, I want to assure you that you don't have to give up on make up. There are plenty of alternatives to your favorite skincare and make up product lines that are guaranteed to be organic, and free of these chemicals. To provide you with recommendations for a non-harmful beauty regimen, here is a list of safe cosmetics and skincare products that I have tried and really enjoyed using.

Lipsticks/Lipgloss: Suki Color Pure, La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Lavera, ZuZu Luxe, Primitive

Eyeshadow, EyeLiner, Mascara: La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Dr. Hauschka, ZuZu Luxe, Suki Color Pure

Foundation/Powder/ Concealer: La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Lavera, Cover FX

Nail Polish: No Miss Nail Polish and Remover (free of formaldehyde, Toluene, and dibutyl-phalate )

Skin Care: Dr. Hauschka, Suki Color Pure, Organic Apoteke

Most of these products (except La Bella Donna and Cover FX) can be found in the Whole Body section at Whole Foods. Check your local health food store as well. More and more small health food stores are beginning to carry Dr. Hauschka products among others. To order products on-line, here are the URLs:

www.sukicolor.com

www.lavera.com

www.primitivemakeup.com

www.mineralfusioncosmetics.com

ZuZu luxe:www.veganessentials.com and www.n101.com)

www.drhauschka.com

www.organicapoteke.com

www.coverfx.com ( also available at Sephora ) a medical mineral line. Used in hospitals for burn victims & skin discoloration from loss of pigmentation. Also used for HD television by professional Makeup artists.

www.Labelladonna.com (also available at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC)

La Bella Donna is a mineral line made up of 4 minerals: Micronized Titanium Dioxide-non chemical sunblock SPF 20; Iron Oxides- the source of color; Bismuth Oxychloride- anti-inflammatory properties ; and Zinc Oxide- anti-inflammatory properties (soothing to the skin). This line is particularly one of my favorites because I freelanced as a makeup artist for them for a brief period at Bergdorf Goodman. This makeup is luxurious. It is absolutely gorgeous on. It photographs well, it lasts all day and it looks natural. It heals your skin while you wear it. Who could ask for anything more from cosmetics, right?!

In today's world, most pregnant women are working into their eighth month and need to present themselves professionally. So, not using make up because of the potential harm it could do to your unborn child may not be a realistic option. And no woman, whether pregnant or not, should have to relinquish her beauty regimen. Instead, all you need is to revamp your make up kit with products that won't harm and might even help your skin. They will help ensure a healthy baby and a healthier mommy.

---

Photoshoot with Tori Quisling: www.yourpsychicself.net

All Makeup and photos by anita nouryeh using Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics.........N0 retouching......

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics

Last week when I did the makeup and photo shoot with Donna Sonkin, the foundation/powder I used was from the line, Youngblood. I was so happy with how amazing and flawless her skin looked (especially since the photos are the real deal...no retouching....) that I decided to go ahead and purchase more of the makeup and try all of it.

Here's what I learned:

Primer/liquid foundation/loose powder: Amazing! Beautiful!!! The one thing I will say is that I used the foundation with the primer and I also tried it on it's own with a moisturizer from Dr. Hauschka, and I have to be honest and say the primer is there for a reason. The end result for that flawless look is smoother and has a more perfect finish using the primer than it does without it. So even though we all try and pinch our pennies when we are buying cosmetics, don't skimp on the primer. You'll be so much happier having it be a part of the makeup application.

Pressed Setting Powder: It's effective for sure, but for everyday use I would say use it once and then find something like blot papers to absorb your oil throughout the day rather than touching up with the setting powder throughout the day. It's very absorbent and can look dry/caky if used too often or with too heavy of a hand in the application. I'm assuming it was probably created for more of a Television/Film makeup application than for an everyday makeup. That doesn't mean you can't use it, just use it sparingly. Instead, as an alternate, I would use the loose HD powder that I used on Donna. The finish is the perfect balance of not too shiny and not too caky. I would call it a satin finish. My favorite way for skin to look, just a wee bit dewy but not over the top....

Eyeshadow: So far I've only tried the standard eyeshadows. They do carry loose powder pigments but when I was shopping I figured I should try the regular eyeshadows first. The consistency is soft and blends well. The pigmentation is strong so you don't have to pack it on. I would say the color selection is not fantastic. Don't get me wrong, the are beautiful, but I wasn't blown away. I guess I was expecting to see something I've never seen before but that wasn't the case. Having said that though the shadows are very natural and pretty and they photograph well, for sure...and they are practical....you'll definitely get good bank for your buck because they are colors you can use everyday and then add one or two darker colors to change the look from day to night relatively easily....

Blush/Bronzer: The cheek colors are gorgeous!!! Love 'em!!!

Lipstick/Lipgloss: I tried about 5 lipgloss colors and 4 Lipsticks. As I said about the eyeshadows, the colors aren't anything I've never seen but they are VERY pretty!!! They look natural with a "pop"....they look great in person and in photos and you can easily mix them to create more colors, which is always my favorite thing to do!

Mascara: Not my fave....kinda clumpy and didn't do anything as far as volumizing or lengthening...I basically felt like the mascara tinted my eyelashes and that's it....not worth the $....

To conclude, I think Youngblood's strength is definitely their foundation/skin colors. They have a great variety of skin tones so that everyone can use it. So far I've used it on myself, on Donna and on a client yesterday and I'm so excited by it!!! Check this line out, I guarantee you'll find more than one product you'll love!!!

Beauty Shoot using Tarte Cosmetics and Youngblood Cosmetics

All Makeup and Photos by Anita
No retouching.....



Before



All Photos
Using
Youngblood Primer Foundation & Powder
&
Tarte Eye, cheek, Lip

Tarte Cosmetics

Tarte: A full take

So as promised, I went back to Sephora to check out the full line of Tarte Cosmetics. I was pleasantly surprised to see that almost their entire line is now petro-chemical, paraben, gmo and sulfate free. The boxes that are within that genre are marked "health couture".... but I must admit that almost everything had that label. I have to believe that they are phasing out the old stuff and soon the line will be entirely natural. I have tried almost everything in the line and I have to say generally I am extremely happy with almost everything I've used on myself and on clients.

As you can see from the pictures in my previous post, Tarte photographs well and give you a flawless look that is relatively easy to achieve.

Eyeshadows: The color selection is well rounded. They have a variety of palettes with different color schemes....such as warmer soft colors and more neutral colors. A lot of the shadows have shimmer in them, some are more shimmery and sparkly than others. There are matte shadows in the line just not quite as many, which in reality is the case in a lot of makeup lines, green or mainstream. But the secret to eyeshadow with shimmer is that it's absolutely age appropriate for anyone, the adjustment for age/sophistication is just how you apply the rest of your makeup to compensate. So for example, someone with more advanced skin or someone who is a bit more conservative with their style could use a shimmery eyeshadow and then make sure that nothing else in the makeup application on the face has shimmer. In other words, make sure your blush/bronzer is matte and your lipstick has no frost or sparkle in it. Then you will have a well balanced and beautiful makeup and still feel like yourself.

Blush/Bronzer: The one problem with the powder blushes and bronzers is the consistency. The powder blushes are extremely powdery and do not blend very well. The colors are relatively generic and the selection is not that great. But it's workable, so the palettes that they make that have eyeshadows, blushes, bronzer and lipstick all in one are definitely usable but the blushes are just not my favorite.

The powder bronzer has a lot of gold undertone in it. On some skin it looks gorgeous but what I noticed on myself is that it looked dirty and a bit orange, very similar to the spray tanned women I've seen or worked on when they've had too much sprayed on.

The cheek stain on the other hand is amazing! I love the colors....they look so natural and they are easy to blend in to the skin looking as if the color is coming up from underneath.

Lipstick/lipgloss: The colors are really pretty even though they don't have an extensive variety the way MAC or Chanel or any other mainstream makeup line does. But having said that I found 6 or 7 colors that I really liked so I'm confident that anyone could find at least one gloss and one lipstick that they would feel fits their style and looks beautiful.

Parabens

here's a quick read of what Parabens are and the controversy surrounding the use of them in cosmetics. Technically they are preservatives, and the controversy is similar to that surrounding alternative medicine. Pharmaceutical companies are threatened by alternative sources of medicine/preventative medicine because ultimately they think it picks their pockets, so to speak. The same is here with potentially harmful chemicals is makeup/skincare. Those cosmetic companies in the mainstream are going to argue the validity of these studies and discoveries because of the fact that the information can harm their profits. Perhaps nothing is certain but studies are showing enough proof of how Parabens and other chemicals, which i will get in to later, are if nothing else at least contributing to the rise in illness's such as breast cancer.

Breast cancer

Several peer-reviewed studies have reported results that indirectly support a correlation between the presence of parabens and the occurrence of breast cancer. High levels of parabens have been detected in breast tumors,^[11][12] with one UK-based study finding high concentrations of parabens in eighteen out of twenty samples of breast tumors.^[12]These findings, along with the demonstrated ability of parabens to mimic estrogen, a hormone known to play a role in the development of breast cancers,^[12] have led some scientists to conclude that the presence of parabens does correlate with the occurrence of breast cancer,^[6][13] and to call for investigation into whether or not a causal link exists.^[14] The lead researcher of the UK study, molecular biologist Philippa Darbre, reported that the ester-bearing form of the parabens found in the tumors indicate that they came from something applied to the skin, such as an underarm deodorant, cream or body spray, and stated that the results helped to explain why up to 60% of all breast tumors are found in just one-fifth of the breast - the upper-outer quadrant, nearest the underarm.^[6] "From this research it is not possible to say whether parabens actually caused these tumors, but they may certainly be associated with the overall rise in breast cancer cases. Given that breast cancer is a large killer of women and a very high percentage of young women use underarm deodorants, I think we should be carrying out properly funded, further investigations into parabens and where they are found in the body," says Dr. Philip Harvey, an editor of the Journal of Applied Toxicology, which published the research.^[6] A 2004 study at Northwestern University found that an earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis related to more frequent use of antiperspirants/deodorants and underarm shaving.^[15] "I personally feel there is a very strong correlation between the underarm hygiene habits and breast cancer," said immunologist Dr. Kris McGrath, the author of the study.^[13]

This research has fueled a popular belief that the parabens in underarm deodorants and other cosmetics can migrate into breast tissue and contribute to the development of tumors.

No direct evidence of a causal link between parabens and cancer, however, has been shown. A 2005 review of the data available at that time concluded "it is biologically implausible that parabens could increase the risk of any estrogen-mediated endpoint, including effects on the male reproductive tract or breast cancer" and that "worst-case daily exposure to parabens would present substantially less risk relative to exposure to naturally occurring endocrine active chemicals in the diet such as the phytoestrogendaidzein."^[16] The American Cancer Society also concludes that there is currently insufficient scientific evidence to support a claim that use of cosmetics such as antiperspirants increase an individual's risk of developing breast cancer; the ACS, however, goes on to state that "larger studies are needed to find out what effect, if any, parabens might have on breast cancer risk.^[17]

While current studies do not causally link parabens with tumors, neither do these studies demonstrate that parabens are safe; the long-term health effects of exposure to parabens are essentially unknown.^[18]

[edit]Estrogenic activity

Animal experiments have shown that parabens have weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens.^[19] In an in vivo study, the effect of butylparaben was determined to be approximately 100,000 times weaker than that of estradiol, and was only observed at a dose level approximately 25,000 times higher than the level typically used to preserve products.^[20]The study also found that the in vivo estrogenic activity of parabens is reduced by about three orders of magnitude compared to in vitro activity.

The estrogenic activity of parabens increase with the length of the alkyl group. It is believed that propylparaben is estrogenic to a certain degree as well,^[21] though this is expected to be less than butylparaben by virtue of its less lipophilic nature. Since it can be concluded that the estrogenic activity of butylparaben is negligible under normal use, the same should be concluded for shorter analogs.

Some estrogens are known to drive the growth of tumors; however the estrogenic activity and mutagenic activity of estrogens are not the same, with the latter dependent on free radical chemistry and not estrogen receptor activity.^[22] Nonetheless, this study has elicited some concern about the use of butylparaben, and to a lesser extent other parabens as well, in cosmetics and antiperspirants. A 2005 safety assessment of parabens concluded that cosmetics containing parabens do not, on the basis of currently available evidence, pose a health risk; because of the low doses involved and the low probability that parabens will penetrate into the tissue, remain intact, and accumulate there.^[7]

[edit]Sun exposure

Studies indicate that methylparaben applied on the skin reacts with UVB leading to increased skin aging and DNA damage^[23][24].

[edit]Regulation

Nevertheless, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) stated in 2006 that the available data on parabens do not enable a decisive response to the question of whether propyl, butyl and isobutyl paraben can be safely used in cosmetic products at individual concentrations up to 0.4%, which is the allowed limit in the EU.^[25]

[edit]Controversy

The above-mentioned studies have resulted in scientific debate that in turn led to popular controversy largely propagated by mass e-mail.^[26][27] The controversy has led to some concerns (both over possible carcinogenicity^[28] as well as estrogenic effects^[29]) being expressed over the continued use of parabens as preservatives.

The mainstream cosmetic industry believes that parabens, like most cosmetic ingredients, are safe based on their long term use and safety record and recent scientific studies.^[30] Public interest organizations which raise awareness about cosmetic ingredients believe that further research is necessary to determine the safety of parabens (see also precautionary principle).^[28] The concerns about endocrine disruptors have led consumers and companies searching for paraben free alternatives.^[31] The ingredient grapefruit seed extract that is promoted as a natural preservative was identified with the preservative methylparaben.^[1]

[edit]

retrieved article about Tarte, Blum Naturals Eye pads,BWC and Stript

So this week I tried a few products. The funny thing is they were all
> products I stumbled upon while shopping for other things. To be honest 3 out
> of the 4 products were extremely disappointing. I broke out in small red
> bumps on my face from all of the lines except Tarte. In a way it's also kind
> of funny because Tarte has been a mainstream makeup line for years and very
> recently as I discovered they now have a small section in their makeup line
> free of petro-chemicals, paraben free, dye free, and GMO free. Here's what I
> learned:
>
> Tarte: I purchased the starter kit from the new Natural line. It contains a
> primer, a liquid foundation, a concealer, a pressed mineral powder, and a
> bronzer. What's convenient about this kit is that it provides the steps in
> an easy way. When I finished everything and looked at the result, my skin
> looked clean, glowing and natural. The texture was creamy but not greasy and
> the powders both the pressed and the bronzer blend very easily into the skin
> rather than sitting on the surface. I would definitely recommend this line
> to people. I'm actually going to go back to Sephora next week to see if
> there are eyeshadows, lipsticks, and blushes in the natural line. I hope so.
>
> Blum Naturals Eye-Cleansing Pads: These cleansing pads are free of parabens
> and synthetic fragrances and they are awful! Not only did I have to
> practically drag them across my face to get any makeup removed but my skin
> felt dry and red right above my cheekbone almost immediately. I waited for
> about 10 minutes to see what else would happen and when I looked in the
> mirror I had small red bumps in the areas that felt dry. I started to also
> have a burning sensation under my eyes so I went and washed my face and
> smeared as much moisturizer on my skin as I could. i found this stuff at
> Ricky's beauty supply ( a chain all over NYC) and all i can say is, "what a
> waste of $7.00"
>
> BWC ( Beauty Without Cruelty eye makeup remover ): This is a creamy
> eyemakeup remover. It works well to take mascara off and even though it's
> paraben free and fragrance free my skin felt a bit disturbed from it. I'd be
> willing to try it again when I haven't been walking around in the cold all
> day or when my skin isn't still irritated from other products. I'll leave it
> to you to try. You can find it at wholefoods/wholebody.
>
> Stript: I came across this line at Ricky's when I was waiting to pay at the
> register. It's a vegan, paraben free, mineral makeup line. So far from what
> I've seen they have a mineral powder foundation, a concealer stick, eye
> liner, and loose eye pigment. What I've tried are these few things:
> The Concealer Stick: It's very thick so it covers blemishes but it doesn't
> quite blend on it's own. It sort of sits on the surface, so it needs a bit
> of manipulating like a moisturzer (maybe the Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream)
> and it especially needs the moisturizer using it for undereye concealing.
> Otherwise the coverage is decent and once blended well it looks pretty
> natural.
> The Mineral Powder Foundation: This stuff is terrible. It looks like pancake
> makeup used for high school theatre productions. Not worth it at all.
> The loose eye pigment: I actually kind of liked the color selection but it
> definitely needs a creamy base to grab on to like an eye primer/creamy
> concealer perhaps from a different line of makeup (not the stick from the
> it's own line, it won't blend on the eye lid). It needs the creamy base
> otherwise it just flies all over your eyelashes and under eye area.
>
>
> This week was a bit of a bummer for me in my research, I guess because the
> product selection seemed choppy & not cohesive. I suppose that'll happen but
> it's frustrating. Until next week....