Breast Cancer

My mother is a breast cancer survivor. She was diagnosed almost 3 years ago and had a short but intense round of chemotherapy. She’s doing very well, and has had a clean bill of health for going on 2 years. I can’t begin to describe the effect it’s had on my life let alone hers. Once this disease gets close to you, it never really goes away. My mom is extraordinarily strong and since the diagnosis she’s been able to move forward with her life….. and so have I.

These days it seems that every time I stumble upon information pertaining to or playing a part in furthering our awareness about breast cancer, I jump at the opportunity to read it. There are various small adjustments we can make in our day to day routine to improve and maintain our health that don’t interfere with our general enjoyment of life. For example, by switching out certain cosmetics for more “green” and healthy alternatives, we can trim the fat……so to speak, and perhaps prevent complications in the future.

Having said all that, I came across a small, yet gem of a publication specifically dedicated to Breast Cancer patients, survivors, and all those affected by the disease. The writer, Julia Chiappetta, also a Breast Cancer survivor, collaborated with an Oncologist, Dr. Merrick I. Ross, M.D., F.A.C.S, and wrote Breast Cancer The Notebook. It’s a comprehensive and simple way to get as much information about Breast Cancer, treatments, healthy living suggestions and maintenance into one place as possible. She covers all the bases including information on certain chemicals in cosmetics to avoid as well as clarifying why we should really try to stay away from antiperspirant deodorants.

“Antiperspirants contain chemicals and toxins that are absorbed into your body in your armpit area and may cause a concentration of toxins that lead to cell mutations.” Julia Chiapetta

Most antiperspirants contain aluminum.

“Despite its natural abundance, aluminum has no known function in living cells and presents some toxic effects in elevated concentrations. Its toxicity can be traced to deposition in bone and the central nervous system, which is particularly increased in patients with reduced renal function. Because aluminum competes with calcium for absorption, increased amounts of dietary aluminum may contribute to the reduced skeletal mineralization (osteopenia) observed in preterm infants and infants with growth retardation. In very high doses, aluminum can cause neurotoxicity, and is associated with altered function of the blood-brain barrier.[61] A small percentage of people are allergic to aluminium and experience contact dermatitis, digestive disorders, vomiting or other symptoms upon contact or ingestion of products containing aluminium, such as deodorants or antacids. In those without allergies, aluminium is not as toxic as heavy metals, but there is evidence of some toxicity if it is consumed in excessive amounts.[62] Although the use of aluminium cookware has not been shown to lead to aluminium toxicity in general, excessive consumption of antacids containing aluminium compounds and excessive use of aluminium-containing antiperspirants provide more significant exposure levels. Studies have shown that consumption of acidic foods or liquids with aluminium significantly increases aluminium absorption,[63] and maltol has been shown to increase the accumulation of aluminium in nervous and osseus tissue.[64] Furthermore, aluminium increases estrogen-related gene expression in human breast cancer cells cultured in the laboratory.[65] The estrogen-like effects of these salts have led to their classification as a metalloestrogen. “ Internet research

I know it’s a difficult concept, especially in a city like New York where you’re running around all day, to consider switching from antiperspirant to regular deodorant but here’s why it should be something to think about. Let me explain by summarizing what Julia Chiappetta has written:

Armpits are one of four areas in our body where toxins are released in the form of sweat. Armpits are also the closest of these areas to our breasts. If we clog that area with an antiperspirant, we are literally stopping the natural occurrence of toxin release. Therefore the toxins build up and deposit themselves throughout the body, most commonly in the lymph nodes that are closest to the armpit. To quote Julia Chiappetta, “ A high percentage of breast cancer tumors are found in the upper outside quadrant of the breast area because about 80% of breast tissue is located in that area.”

There are a few chemicals found in cosmetics that I was unfamiliar with that Julia Chiappetta lists as ingredients to avoid:

To quote:

“ Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea
These are the most commonly used as preservatives after the parabens. They are well established as a primary cause of contact dermatitis. Two trade names for these chemicals are Germall II and Germall 115. Germall 115 releases formaldehyde at just over 10 degrees.

PVP/VA Copolymer
A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays, wave sets and other cosmetics.

Triethanolamine
Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level, and used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base, for a cleanser. TEA causes allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time. “

I’d like to thank Julia Chiappetta and her collaborators for this book. It is a great resource for so many people and it’s accessible, not too clinical. Here’s the website for the book:
www.breastcancer-thenotebook.com

and just a reminder, from her and from me….please read your labels! Make sure you know as much as you can about the ingredients you are ingesting and absorbing everyday…..

continuation of Vegan...

while i'm starting a new skincare regimen to blog about...I though I'd post a list of some vegan companies that I've used/discovered recently.

1. Lime Crime (www.limecrimemakeup.com)
this line is 100% Vegan

2. OCC/Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
this line is 100% vegan

3. Urban Decay
much of this line is Vegan....the products that are vegan have a Paw print on the packaging

4. Tarte Cosmetics
again, same as with urban Decay...some of their products are Vegan so just check the website that has all of their vegan products listed on one page

Vegan

About 3 months ago I was hired by my first strictly vegan bride. What I thought would be a cinch, turned out to be a whole new lesson in reading labels and understanding ingredients. Initially when we had our first consultation, I used all of my minerals on her. I knew the minerals from La Bella Donna (www.labelladonna.com) were fine for vegans because that particular company only uses 4 minerals in their makeup and only plant derived emulsifiers in their lipsticks/glosses. But when she contacted me closer to the date of her wedding, asking me to re-think the lip color, that was the start of a search for the true definition of vegan cosmetics that I've been continuing to investigate. Her main concern as we decided on the lip color was to ensure that not only were the cosmetics we were using cruelty-free (no animal testing) but free of any animal byproducts as well. I spent the week before her wedding scrambling around, reading labels and hunting down Vegan cosmetic brands only to find that unless one is a vegan and familiar with the terminology, it's a challenge to truly understand the minute details of these ingredients.

As a meat eater, I occasionally forget that when I'm reading labels for this blog that just because a company is "green" doesn't mean that they are cruelty and animal byproduct free. Furthermore, you can read all the ingredients on the planet but if you don't know exactly what they are on their own, then you can't really know if the particular product you are reading about is precisely what you are looking for. For example, one instance where I was reading ingredients at Sephora, I read that there was "Carnuba Wax" used. Well I automatically assumed that "Carnuba" meant animal because the word I associated with it was Carnivore. When I went home and looked up Carnuba wax on the internet, it defined it as a plant based wax. I was a bit embarrassed with my uneducated assumption of the word and was reminded of the horrible grades I received in my high school biology class.

Having said that, it's weeks later and I've done some reading on Vegan cosmetics and here's what I've learned so far:

A specific company can say it's cruelty free but the thing is that a lot of cosmetic brands are owned by one large corporation, such as Loreal. Loreal tests their products on animals so even if your smaller label says it doesn't test on animals, the company that owns it may. So make sure you know whether or not the company you buy from is owned corporate or not. On the other hand, MAC cosmetics is owned by Estee Lauder and MAC has absolutely no testing on animals whatsoever. And it's a fact. So it's important to do your research and if you're curious you can always contact the customer service number for whichever company you are using.

Ingredients made from animal byproducts were more of a challenge for me to find. But here are some that stood out as relatively common: Beeswax, Honey, Dairy products.

here are a few that were a mystery to me and so i took some bits from wikipedia to make the definitions as simple and straight forward as possible:

1. Lanolin

Lanolin
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Lanolin (German, from Latin lāna, "wool", and oleum, "oil") also called Adeps Lanae, wool wax or wool grease, is a yellow waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals. Most lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheep. Lanolin is also frequently, but incorrectly, referred to as ‘Wool Fat’ by many of the world’s pharmacopoeia even though it has been known for more than 150 years that lanolin is devoid of glycerides and is in fact a wax, not a fat.[1][2] Lanolin's waterproofing property aids sheep in shedding water from their coats. Certain breeds of sheep produce large amounts of lanolin, and the extraction can be performed by squeezing the sheep's harvested wool between rollers. Most or all of the lanolin is removed from wool when it is processed into textiles, such as yarn or felt.
Lanolin’s role in nature is to protect wool and skin against the ravages of climate and the environment – it also seems to play a role in integumental hygiene.[3] It is therefore not surprising that lanolin and its many derivatives are used extensively in products designed for the protection, treatment and beautification of human skin.[4]



2. Royal Jelly
also from wikipedia
Royal jelly is a honey bee secretion that is used in the nutrition of larvae, as well as adult queens.[1] It is secreted from the glands in the hypopharynx of worker bees, and fed to all larvae in the colony.[2]

Royal jelly is collected and sold as a dietary supplement, claiming various health benefits because of components like B-complex vitamins such as pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) and vitamin B6 (pyridoxine). The overall composition of royal jelly is 67% water, 12.5% crude protein (including small amounts of many different amino acids), and 11% simple sugars (monosaccharides), also including a relatively high amount (5%) of fatty acids. It also contains many trace minerals, some enzymes, antibacterial and antibiotic components, and trace amounts of vitamin C.
Royal jelly can also be found in some beauty products.
Royal jelly may cause allergic reactions in humans ranging from hives, asthma, to even fatal anaphylaxis.[14][15][16][17][18][19] The incidence of allergic side effect in people that consume royal jelly is unknown. However, it has been suggested that the risk of having an allergy to royal jelly is higher in people who already have known allergies.[14]


3. Carmine
also from wikipedia
Carmine (pronounced /ˈkɑrmɪn/ or /ˈkɑrmaɪn/), also called Crimson Lake, Cochineal, Natural Red 4, C.I. 75470, or E120, is a pigment of a bright red color obtained from the carminic acid produced by some scale insects, such as the cochineal and the Polish cochineal, and is used as a general term for a particularly deep red color of the same name. Carmine is used in the manufacture of artificial flowers, paints, crimson ink, rouge, and other cosmetics, and is routinely added to food products such as yogurt and certain brands of juice, most notably those of the ruby


To conclude, i'd like to thank my vegan bride for sparking my interest in uncovering the general mystery of Vegan cosmetics and i look forward to knowing more....unfortunately as far as food goes...i don't think i could ever give up meat and dairy...but thanks all the same!!! :)

Jurlique

Jurlique

It’s been a bumpy ride with Jurlique. No pun intended. Well, maybe a bit intended.

I stumbled across this luxurious natural skincare line at Whole Foods about a year ago. I thought the packaging was pretty so I bought a bottle of their lavender hydrating mist. After using it during the sweltering summer months, I found that my skin really liked it. So I went back to Whole Foods to find out more about this stuff.

Initially I went with the travel size starter kit. It’s a great price for what you get. The kit is $50 for about a 2-4 week supply. They have 4 different formulas that the starter kit comes in: Oily, Dry, Sensitive, and Normal. They were sold out of most of the kits so I was left with the one for Normal skin. I figured, it’s all-natural, how can I go wrong? Well something I’ve been discovering lately, just because the product is natural, doesn’t mean your skin can’t get irritated.
The products in the “normal skin” kit all irritated my skin. My face was red, dry, and I broke out in little whiteheads all around my chin and forehead. But I had seen Jurlique written up in a bunch of magazines so I didn’t want to give up. I went back to Whole Foods and bought the starter kit for dry skin. I figured the dry skin kit would help soothe the redness, and it did.

These are the products that come in the kit:
Cleanser
Exfoliater
Hydrating serum/mist
Day cream
Night cream or and eye cream depending on the kit

My skin began to heal and all seemed better for about a month. The one thing I didn’t like in the kit was the exfoliater. The consistency felt like a fruit spread that would be better on toast than on my face. When I rinsed my face it felt as if no dead skin cells had been exfoliated. I still had dry flakes of skin on my forehead after using it.

But I really liked the other products. They seemed to be working, so I went back to Whole Foods to see if Jurlique had an alternate exfoliater that felt more like what I was used to. I’m accustomed to the exfoliaters with tiny granules that as you spread them across your skin you can feel a slight scratch, and you know its removing the dead skin cells.

I finally found a different exfoliater in their age-defying line. It was exactly what I was looking for. I used it during my “before bed” skin regimen and everything felt fine. My skin was smooth and clean. About a week later, I used the exfoliater again and 2 hours later I broke out in hives all around my chin, mouth, forehead and jaw line.

I’m stumped about what caused the sudden breakout. I don’t know if the fragrance was too much, or perhaps it took a few weeks for my skin to figure out what was being applied to it and then it decided to reject it. It’s been a month since the breakout and I still can’t figure it out. I’m disappointed because Jurlique is one of the top natural skincare lines on the market right now.

Luckily, my mom was searching for a new skincare line and I had recommended Jurlique to her. I gave her everything I had and here’s what she has to say about it.

Andrea’s thoughts on Jurlique

"After experimenting with a number of paraben-free skin care lines, my daughter Anita turned me on to Jurlique. I have been using these products for the past four months. As an older woman, I was interested in the “Purely Age-Defying” products in the line and began with them first. These include the Refining Treatment (exfoliator), the Facial Serum, Eye Cream, and the Night Lotion. The Refining treatment is a very gentle exfoliation of the skin that leaves my skin soft without irritation. It works as a once a week facial and does the job. The Facial Serum provides a layer of protection that actually allows the Night Lotion to get absorbed. These two products create a rich combination and really moisturize my skin at night. I’ve noticed that my skin has begun to take on a much more youthful glow since I’ve begun using these products. I particularly like the Eye Cream. A small pearl of the cream goes a long way. It is easy to use; the tube allows you to use a tiny bit without contaminating the rest of the product. It goes on smoothly and soothes as well as moisturizes the delicate under eye area. It is not too rich for daytime use either.
The Jurlique line has several cleansers. I’ve tried two of the three: Replenishing Foaming Cleanser for dry skin and Soothing Foaming Cleanser for sensitive skin. While the Replenishing Cleanser certainly is gentle and helps get rid of the tell tale signs of make up at the end of the day, I actually prefer the Soothing Cleanser in terms of how my skin feels after using it. It doesn’t leave a film and I feel as if my skin is more ready to absorb the Serum and then moisturizer.
There are at least two moisturizers for daytime. The Moisture Replenishing Day Cream is extremely rich. It feels terrific but takes a bit of time to absorb into the skin. I need to wait about a half an hour before applying make up. There is the Soothing Day Care Lotion that is a much lighter moisturizer and may be more appropriate as a preparation for foundation and powder".









Jurlique

After experimenting with a number of paraben-free skin care lines, my daughter Anita turned me on to Jurlique. I have been using these products for the past four months. As an older woman, I was interested in the “Purely Age-Defying” products in the line and began with them first. These include the Refining Treatment (exfoliator), the Facial Serum, Eye Cream, and the Night Lotion. The Refining treatment is a very gentle exfoliation of the skin that leaves my skin soft without irritation. It works as a once a week facial and does the job. The Facial Serum provides a layer of protection that actually allows the Night Lotion to get absorbed. These two products create a rich combination and really moisturize my skin at night. I’ve noticed that my skin has begun to take on a much more youthful glow since I’ve begun using these products. I particularly like the Eye Cream. A small pearl of the cream goes a long way. It is easy to use; the tube allows you to use a tiny bit without contaminating the rest of the product. It goes on smoothly and soothes as well as moisturizes the delicate under eye area. It is not too rich for daytime use either.
The Jurlique line has several cleansers. I’ve tried two of the three: Replenishing Foaming Cleanser for dry skin and Soothing Foaming Cleanser for sensitive skin. While the Replenishing Cleanser certainly is gentle and helps get rid of the tell tale signs of make up at the end of the day, I actually prefer the Soothing Cleanser in terms of how my skin feels after using it. It doesn’t leave a film and I feel as if my skin is more ready to absorb the Serum and then moisturizer.
There are at least two moisturizers for daytime. The Moisture Replenishing Day Cream is extremely rich. It feels terrific but takes a bit of time to absorb into the skin. I need to wait about a half an hour before applying make up. There is the Soothing Day Care Lotion that is a much lighter moisturizer and may be more appropriate as a preparation for foundation and powder.

Clean Well Hand Sanitizer

As a makeup artist I have to make sure my hands are sanitized every time I start a makeup application. Like most people I was carrying Purell hand sanitizer with me until about a month ago. I received a sample package from Rachael Diamond at Behrman Communications containing a few bottles of the Clean Well Hand Sanitizer. I have to say, it was so generous of her and also such a relief.

I was starting to get frustrated with how dry my hands would get from the Purell after every work day. It felt like I was cleaning my hands with straight rubbing alcohol, and it didn't matter how much moisturizer I used, my hands were still dry.

Since I continuously have to sanitize, I packed the Clean Well in my kit the first day I received it. Funnily enough, a few days after I started using it, I went to my acupuncturist and she was using the Clean Well as her hand sanitizer. Then I saw it at Whole Foods the following day. I don't know if it was a sign or not but I felt like I was being introduced to a great secret that hopefully will not be a secret for long.

What I can say about this product is that it's wonderful. It's alcohol free yet it still kills 99.99% of germs naturally (as stated on their bottle). The ingredients are natural essential plant oils so it keeps my hands moisturized while it keeps them sanitized. I couldn't ask for a better solution for hand sanitation. Not just as an artist but for everyday use. The bottle is a spray bottle so you get better bank for your buck compared to a gel, since much less product comes out with each use.

I truly appreciate the "free goods" but I will for sure continue to buy this product!

www.cleanwelltoday.com

Thoughts on Green Makeup

Over the past few weeks I've done a couple of fashion/beauty photoshoots with professional photographer friends of mine. I asked them (River Clark www.riverclark.com and Shiran Nicholson www.shirannicholson.com) to help me because I wanted to experiment with all of the green makeup I've been blogging about in a more work-related way. In other words, I wanted to see how this green makeup "stuff" would measure up with hi-end digital photography & lighting.

For the most part, the end result is beautiful. The makeup holds up pretty well and photographs nicely. At the same time, as a professional and more to the point a perfectionist and my own worst critic, I noticed slight differences in how the makeup was photographing.

The textures aren't quite as smooth, meaning I see the makeup more. It sits on the surface of the skin even after it's been blended well. I'm sure it has something to do with the ingredients. I found myself manipulating the products a lot more through the application. I kept adding more moisturizer to help me blend the foundation further into the skin. I was alternating between either the Rose Day Cream from Dr. Hauschka or the Rare Minerals moisturizer from Bare Minerals. I found myself working a bit harder to even apply the powder just for setting the makeup so that we wouldn't see any chalky white powder bits in the photo.

In general with hi-def cameras both for still and moving pictures, makeup artists have had to change the way they look at makeup in those situations. These cameras pick up every strand of hair that's out of place so there is no room for overlooking the small details.

There are no unnecessary oils or preservatives in green makeup, which is great, but I'm starting to think that our bodies or skin rather, absorb those chemicals more quickly than we absorb cosmetics that don't contain them. And for photography purposes, plus what we need for time efficiency, we almost require the fast absorption for a more flawless end result.

So not only is green makeup healthier in general because of the ingredients but the fact that our skin doesn't drink it up as quickly is a new discovery. Ultimately I think that is great for everyday makeup and skin care users but I'm still on the fence about it for fashion photography. I have to admit that when I was using the green makeup I was tempted to grab my Chanel and MAC stuff to make it easier. I didn't, and I'm glad I didn't but in makeup artist terms I was just plain frustrated.

Smashbox Halo Powder

I was introduced to the Smashbox Halo Powder about a month ago from one of my coworkers. As far as I know it's the only powder from Smashbox at the moment that's Paraben and Talc free. It is beautiful. You can use it on it's own as a foundation powder or you can use it on top of your liquid foundation to create a beautiful satin finish. It has a bit of a glow and makes your skin look flawless. I love it!!!!

check it out at Sephora...:)

La Bella Donna (Mineral Makeup) the real deal.....

I’ve already mentioned La Bella Donna mineral makeup on a few occasions with my blog, but I wanted to devote a bit more attention to it. To me, it’s one of the best mineral makeup lines out there. Not only do I have an attachment to it because it was my first real introduction into the mineral/green/natural makeup world, but because I’ve used it for a long time and I’ve seen how it photographs and wears on an everyday level. In both cases, it’s absolutely gorgeous.

The loose foundation powder is wonderful. It has a bit of a shine/shimmer that gives the skin a healthy glow. A little bit of it goes a long way, so you can start with a thin wash of it with a large brush as a natural clean base or you can build on it to make it full coverage. You can also use a small flat brush and use it as a concealer for blemishes and even under the eyes.

If the loose foundation powder is a bit too shiny for you, they also make a pressed powder that has a matte satin finish. It’s mostly matte but there is a slight sheen that isn’t really shiny, it just reduces the chance for typical results of most matte powders which can be chalky and cakey at times. Personally I use both the loose and the pressed. I like to dust a thin wash of the loose powder all over my face for a nice base and then set with the pressed. I find that setting with the pressed eliminates the need for touching up throughout the day.

The eye shadows and powder blushes are really pretty. The color choices aren’t immense but there is definitely enough variety to have a natural/neutral look, a smoky look and a look with a bit of color. They blend so well together and into the skin that it physically requires no work. I mean you place the brush where it needs to go, blend and the color/shadow is perfectly placed on the eye or cheek.

The mascara is great. It has a nice amount of thickening and lengthening and doesn’t dry hard. The only thing is it’s not waterproof so using it for brides has gone out the window for me, but I use it on myself and it gives me just enough “wow” to feel pretty and natural but not too made up.

The same is true with the eyeliner pencils. They are soft and rich and blend very well for a soft smoky look, or you can create a thick bold line that’s full and dark if that’s your thing too. The only problem again is that they are not water resistant so using them for brides and/ or on a very hot day, can get a bit messy just because they tend to melt a bit more easily.

The lipstick and lipgloss is really nice. Most of them are pretty sheer but buildable. So potentially you can use them like a stain just for a bit of color, or you can build the color to a fully rich tone that looks and feels like a lipstick you’d buy from Chanel or Bobbi Brown. Again, like the eyeshadows, the color selection isn’t vast but its enough to give you choices for a variety of looks and I guarantee you will find at least 2 or 3 colors that jump out at you right away.

The most fascinating thing to me about La Bella Donna as a company, is that they provide information about their products that is not only factual about minerals and their benefits but also how simple it is. The explanations of the ingredients are easy to understand and actually fun to read.

La Bella Donna is an approachable line. Even though they are located at Bergdorf Goodeman which is a rather intimidating and fancy department store, you can still feel good about yourself because everyone that comes to shop there is treated equally. The people who work for the company (including myself a few years ago) truly stand behind this product and are excited to impart their knowledge of it to everyone. You can also purchase it online at the website www.labelladonna.com. There is a lot more info about all the ingredients on the website…..take a look and enjoy!!! ☺

Bare Minerals

So this week I contacted my friend Kerrie Urban (www.kerrieurban.com)... She is a hair and makeup artist based in NYC with Artists by Timothy Priano. I contacted her to help me with my blog because I knew she used Bare Minerals cosmetics on a regular basis.

To be perfectly honest, I was never really a fan of Bare Minerals....I found it drying on my own skin which is already dry and sensitive, and that it didn't photograph very well on photoshoots. I found that the faces were reflecting a lot of light and almost looked metallic. Then I saw that one of the ingredients in one form of their loose foundation powders was Aluminum. I was surprised by that because La Bella Donna, another mineral makeup line that I LOVE, does photograph well, is not too shiny and does not contain Aluminum. The aluminum made me nervous and a bit ticked off that they were calling themselves a mineral line which they very well may be (obviously) but that they were still using relatively harmful ingredients.

Having said that, when I saw that ingredient, it was at a photoshoot with kerrie 2 years ago. Since then I've shopped at Sephora many times, furiously reading the ingredient list on the Bare Minerals packaging and never once saw Aluminum again on the list.

So I made the decision to start trying Bare Minerals. So far I've tried the Foundation Powder, Mineral Veil, Moisturizer and Eye Cream. They are all really nice, good quality products.
One thing I'll say about the foundation powder and mineral veil is that for photography purposes you have to be careful because of the light. In my pictures of Kerrie I used natural light which seemed to not have too reflective of a result so it was fine...but for studio light i'm wary because it almost casts a film that looks greasy.

But for everyday use here's what kerrie said, " I like using bare minerals for my everyday foundation because it's not too heavy. It doesn't clog my pores and it doesn't dry me out. I have oily skin so the nice thing is that the powder absorbs some of the oil but not so much that I look made up. What I do wish they'd do is create a travel compact of the foundation powder because it just get's so messy in my bag carrying around the loose. It would be nice to have a compact with a mirror and a little application brush, that way I can touch up at work and not worry about getting powder everywhere on set." Kerrie Urban 2010 (www.kerrieurban.com)

I'm looking forward to trying more of the bare minerals line and getting back with more info....stay tuned for more on Bare Minerals soon.....

Vitamin E

just a quick note/tip.....

Most lip gloss's and lip balms in the general market (meaning not green companies that I've either written about or am still investigating) contain petroleum jelly which is very unhealthy. It's unhealthy primarily because it's carcenogenic but also it traps in heat on the skin. It's a common misconception that Vaseline is soothing for burns or chapped lips but because when applied to the skin it traps in heat, actually worsening the burn vs. healing it. Petroleum jelly has also been known to cause a type of pneumonia called Lipid Pneumonia....

(FROM RESEARCH
Improper uses
As the substance became more common in households, it began to be used for a number of medical purposes, some of which medical science has shown to be dangerous or damaging.
Fresh Burns
It should not be used on fresh burns of any kind, including sunburn. Petrolatum traps heat inside, worsening burns. After heat has dissipated, however, it can serve as a dressing for minor burns to soothe later pain.[6]
Nasal congestion or dryness
If particles of petrolatum are inhaled from the nose, they may deposit in the lungs and lead to a condition called lipid pneumonia.
Personal Lubricant
Because petroleum jelly is oil-based, it interferes with the structure of latex. Using petroleum jelly with latex condoms weakens the material very quickly, increasing the chance of rupture. Thus it is not recommended for use during sexual intercourse when using a latex condom.)




but a few quick alternatives:

take a vitamin E liquid caplet, poke a hole in it with a safety pin or needle, and squeeze the liquid directly on to your lip. It's a perfect lipgloss because it has the benefits of vitamin E directly for moisture and hydration and it has a great shine....

an alternative to vaseline for soothing burns is aloe. Buy yourself an aloe plant and when you need something soothing if you burn yourself cooking or whatever, break off a chunk from the leaf of the plant and use the liquid directly on your skin. You'll find that your burn will feel cooler as well as smooth.

another home remedy for a sunburn that i've used myself is Avocado. I remember once when I was in college, I laid out all day not having applied any SPF and by nightfall my legs were so burnt it was hard to walk. I was in so much pain and so desperate for relief that I took an avocado and smeared it all over my legs and they felt so much better. it makes sense that it worked because Avocados are a big source of vitamin E.

Peace Keeper & ZuZu Luxe

Peace Keeper & ZuZu Luxe

I went to wholefoods/body yesterday and picked 2 makeup lines to experiment with. Both of these lines, Peace Keeper cause-metics and ZuZu Luxe, I had used 1 or 2 products from before so it just made sense to continue with them. Both lines are made from organic and natural ingredients and both cruelty free. ZuZu is also vegan, fragrance free, opthomologist tested, water resistant, and hypo allergenic (you can see these statements written on the side of the box).

Peace Keeper is a line of lip products. Lipsticks, glosses and a lip balm. 75% of the ingredients are organic (written on the box) and not only that, this company also distributes a certain amount of their proceeds to support women's issues (also written on their box). I can't say enough about this line. I love it!!! I've used the lipstick on myself, my mom uses it and I've used the lipstick and gloss on photoshoots and weddings. The pigments are strong meaning they last for quite a while.The texture is nice and creamy and stays that way, it doesn't cake up after it's been worn for a while. The gloss does need to be touched up a bit more often but not much more than a gloss from any other mainstream makeup line. I would definitely reccomend this line for both makeup artists and everyday women 100%!!!!

ZuZu Luxe is a full line of makeup. The product I had used from them before my trip to whole foods yesterday was the liquid eyeliner. The liner is great! I've been using it on photoshoots and weddings for about a year. When they say it's water resistant they mean it. Once it dries it will not move.

The other product I had used previous to my trip yesterday was the eyeshadow. The eyeshadow is tricky. The color selection they have is really nice. Very natural but with enough variety to keep it fun. The problem is the pigment only lasts for about an hour or so before it melts away. So yesterday when I was at wholefoods/body the first thing I looked for was to see if they had some sort of eyeshadow base/primer. They don't. So I looked for the next best thing; concealer. The concealer is very thick so only a drop is needed. Just blend it on to the lid as you would with a regular eye primer. Then take either your finger or preferably a stiff, flat eyeshadow brush and pack the color on by pressing it vs. sweeping the color with the brush. What this does is ensures that the pigment is grabbing on to the moisture of the concealer base therefore giving you a stronger sense of the color because you are creating layers. This will help the eyeshadow stay on longer without constant touch ups.

After I solved that problem, I continued experimenting with the rest of the makeup and here's what I discovered.

1. The concealer. After using it as an eyeshadow base I wanted to see it's coverage capabilities. It covers up blemishes very well. It's nice and thick so you can be really precise with where you place it and if you tap it in it almost blends itself. But when I used it under my eyes to help with my dark circles ( part inherited and part stress) it looked like I had 2 stripes of white paint under my eyes. At first I took the back part of my ring finger to try and blend it (the ring finger is the best for under the eye because it's small but has a good amount of flesh to help with the blending), but it didn't want to blend. So I pulled one of my makeup artist tricks out of my pocket and ran over to the Dr. Hauschka section, squeezed a bit of the Rose day cream on my finger and blended that into the concealer. What the moisturizer did was thin out the concealer enough to help it blend but did not take away from the amount of coverage that I needed. The only thing I would say is because the Rose Day Cream has essential oil in it it can be quite shiney, so i would reccomend after getting the desired affect from the concealer/moisturizer to set it with a bit of powder, loose is better than pressed but either one will do. That will eliminate the shine and also help keep the concealer in place thus lessening the chances for you needing to touch up more than once throughout the day.

2. Lipsticks/Glosses. The lipsticks are beautiful. There's a nice selection of color choices and the texture is creamy. I definitely would reccomend them. The glosses on the other hand are just okay. I wasn't super excited by them and they weren't as shiney as I usually like.

3. Liquid Eyeliner. As I mentioned before, GREAT!!!!

4. Mascara. They were sold out of black, which I took as a good sign so I tried the brown. Actually I purchased it and tried it at home. Normally I don't touch anything but black mascara, I'm kind of a stickler with that but I have to say I really liked how the brown mascara looked. And actually it didn't really look that brown on me considering I have black eyelashes to begin with. But what I was really impressed by was the way it made my lashes just a bit thicker and longer but in a subtle way. And another thing that happened without my doing it intentionally was that as I applied the mascara my lashes were crisscrossing in a way that was very natural but reminded me of a doll's lashes. I definitely would reccomend the masacara!!!

5. Pencils. Both the lip pencils and eye pencils were just fine. I wasn't blown away but they served their purpose.

6. Liquid foundation. No! Don't even bother! The colors are completely wrong. They are way too pink.

7. Blush. The color choices are few but surprisingly very pretty. I suspected what would happen with the blush pigment would be the same as with the eyeshadow so I did a bit of manuevering. Normally blush is applied to the cheeks after the face has been powdered but this time I reversed it. I felt that the blush pigment would also need something moist to grab on to so I put it on directly to my skin. Another option is you could also use whatever liquid foundation and then apply the blush on top of that and then set with powder, either way skin or the liquid foundation gives a moisturized surface for the blush to sit on. The color looked pretty and in a way I preferred that method because it looks like the color is coming from underneath the skin as if you're blushing or just went for a run. I may have to do that all the time now. I would reccomend the blush.

8. Pressed powder. It's a good pressed powder. I would say apply with a brush vs. a puff just because it can be a bit chalkey as with any powder organic or not. You just want to dust the powder where it's needed and when applied correctly it looks very natural. Definitely a good staple.

Cover FX

Cover FX

2 years ago at the makeup show in NYC I stumbled across a makeup line called Cover FX. I chatted with the sales rep for a bit and had her try some of the products on me. I found out that they not only sell it online but that Sephora carries it as well. They do not make eyeshadows and blushes. They do make a bronzer in a few different shades but it is primarily a foundation, concealer and powder line. I wasn't in love with all of the products but I could definitely see the potential and absolutely get behind their goals.

This makeup line originated as a medical makeup line used in hospitals for burn victims. So it is quite literally a medical grade makeup line. All of the products include minerals in the ingredients and some of the creamy products contain moisturizing properties such as vitamin E to soothe the skin as it color corrects. I've used the concealer on photoshoots and on myself, and have learned recently that this product line is used by makeup artists working in Television. I can see why they use it for TV because it is mostly a full coverage kind of makeup best for the very bright lights used when filming that medium.

In my experience, what I've learned from working on films being shot in HD is that you have to be careful on set when the lights being used are not the extremely bright TV lights. When working with cameras like the newer, very popular Red camera for example, a key point to remember as a makeup artist/hairstylist is that the lens will pick up every single strand of hair out of place or a dry patch of skin and magnify it. So the goal is to be able to manipulate the full covering effects of this kind of makeup and blend it in to submission not only for Film and TV but also for everyday wear. In other words, to apply it in a way so that it's there but not really there.

here's what i've experimented with from this line:

1. Concealer/ Cream Foundation: With this particular line, the cream foundation is also the concealer. It is extremely full coverage so the trick is finding the best way to achieve both concealing and balancing the skin using a few different tones of color. And as a matter of fact they have a starter kit that helps you step by step with this. But let me start from the beginning.

For years I've used one color of foundation all over the face on myself and on clients as most people do, but what happens is that it creates a flat face ( if you've seen news casters on TV recently you know what I mean by a flat face ). As time has gone by I realized what was missing and have been working to perfect the art of blending 3-4 colors to create the best flawless skin tone possible.

We tend to forget when we are trying to create flawless skin, that we have bone structure. So when we only apply one color we eliminate that bone structure and have to recreate it by highlighting and contouring which can look very made up as the end result. Having said all that, the starter kit, is the perfect introduction to blending 3 shades of foundation together to get the perfect skin tone.

The starter kit comes in Fair, Medium and Dark. It contains a palette of 3 foundation colors with a mineral translucent powder, the skin prep which is their primer for makeup, and a foundation brush. On the back of the box they give you step by step instructions with a picture of where and how to use the 3 colors. Ultimately you will find the best method for yourself as you practice blending but as a beginner their instructions are pretty accurate.

2. Skin Prep: Their skin prep is their primer. It is meant to be applied directly to the skin to prepare the skin for makeup. The consistency is much like a serum. A serum is a sort of liquid meant to hydrate the skin as the step before moisturizer. In this case they are using it as a way of making it easier to blend the makeup. Of course, that was not my experience. Let me elaborate......

I wasn't a fan of the skin prep. Not only did I try it to prep the skin using Cover FX's makeup but I also tried it underneath other foundations from various companies and found the same problem. I found that even though it felt good on the skin it really just sat on the surface almost creating a slippery base for the foundation which then made it hard to blend. I found that as the day wore on my skin went back to appearing dry and dehydrated because the skin prep wasn't doing the job they said it should. And on a photoshoot I found I needed to powder more than usual because the models skin was extra shiny from the prep.

So the other night, not wanting to give up on this stuff, considering it covers my blemishes very well, I tried my old faithful standby. I washed my face and then used Dr. Hauschka's Rose Day Cream to moisturize. I then applied my "fair" palette from the starter kit using my own modified version of the blending technique, powdered my face and took a look. As I've said before, the Rose Day Cream is amazing. It made all the difference. My skin was balanced, hydrated, glowing and the makeup didn't look heavy at all. It lasted all night without touchups and I was very happy! It just goes to show you that when you find something that works well with makeup you should stick with it. Using the Rose Day Cream as a base, I would definitely recommend the cream foundation for sure!

3. Translucent powder: It's a really nice powder. It sets the makeup well but doesn't look chalkey. It's a mineral powder so it's not too matte, it has just the slightest hint of a glow but not shimmery. I really like it.....:)

4. Mineral Foundation Powder: The mineral foundation powder that they carry is very beautiful as far as how it finishes the skin but it's extremely full coverage. Most of the mineral foundation powders I'm familiar with have the capability of being full coverage but you can build it that way, it's not like that from the first stroke of the brush. This one is. The packaging needs a little help. They don't make it easy to not get powder everywhere , making a mess, and the applicator is strange. I think it's supposed to be a sponge applicator that is shaped like a brush but when you use it it's like you're painting the powder in thick streaks across your face. I had to then take a regular blush brush and forcefully blend the powder away. It didn't work very well and I looked very made up. As I said the finish is beautiful, like a porcelain doll with a bit of sparkle. But the work isn't worth it. There are better mineral powder foundations out there, but give it a try......maybe it'll work for you.

5. Liquid Foundation: I'm not sure what they were doing with this product. It's pasty and thick but doesn't cover very well. It also doesn't blend very well. it just sort of stays in the spot where it was applied and doesn't move. I think it could have potential with a bit of time and experimentation but I found what I needed with the cream foundation mixed with the Dr. Hauschka Rose day Cream. This just seemed like an unnecessary step.

I'm glad I was able to make the cream foundation work for me because I understand the importance of a line like this. It's primarily for people with skin discoloration from serious burns to simple genetics. But genetics doesn't have to mean big dark spots or big white spots. It could be something minor like my red apple cheeks that every girl in my family has. They get super red at times and I get self-conscious. Everyone wants to feel beautiful but also it's hard to find a good foundation in the green/clean makeup world that covers well, can be the right color scheme, and still make you feel like yourself.

Cover FX will work if you use it correctly. :)

Dr. Hauschka

Dr. Hauschka

My introduction to the Dr. Hauschka product line was a couple of years ago on a photoshoot. I was assisting a makeup artist on a job for Harper's Bazaar. The feature of the editorial was on "The Real Housewives of New York." It was a riot seeing those ladies in action.

Anyway, the makeup artist I was assisting ( Christopher Ardoff ) asked me to prep the skin of one of the "housewives" while he touched up the lipstick on another. What he meant by prepping the skin was to have me clean the face with a bit of makeup remover and then apply moisturizer to the skin as a base for foundation. The moisturizer he had was the Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream. I remember loving the scent right away and the texture was rich and emollient. I finished applying the moisturizer and waited for further instruction. I noticed almost immediately that her skin looked dewy and fresh even before he applied the foundation. And after her makeup was finished, her skin looked amazingly even and hydrated.

I decided to purchase it for myself the next day. I used that moisturizer last winter and it was great for my dry and very sensitive skin, especially in the cold air with wind burn and inside heated buildings that are way too hot and dry. It protected my skin from typical causes for sensitive skin to freak out like not washing my face at night thoroughly, excess make up, and drinking too much caffeine and not enough water. Yes, even I do this, too.

Then I decided to try a bunch of the skin care line and here's what I found out:

1. The 2 cleansers work very well but you have to figure out the best ways to use them. I think because the ingredients are all natural they take a bit more manipulating than just an ordinary cleanser or makeup remover that you just wipe on the face and everything magically disappears. With the Dr. H's cleansers you use them in steps. First you take the cleansing milk and apply it all over the face. You can either tissue it off dry which is great for makeup removal ( but not Eye makeup) or gently wipe with a damp washcloth. The next cleanser is the Cleansing Cream ( for deep cleansing and gentle exfoliating) and that you use like a regular cleanser although when applying it try massaging it in to the skin in circular movements. Remove with a damp washcloth or even better a damp muslin cloth and then remove the rest by rinsing with water directly. Even though these cleansers don't foam up like soap, don't let that throw you; your skin will be very clean if you clean it the way I suggested.

2. There are 2 toners one for dry/sensitive and one for oily. Use whichever one suits your skin type the most. This is applied after cleansing just like any other toner. But with this after you spray it on the face, tap it in with your fingers a bit to let it absorb further in to the skin.

3. The next step is moisturizer. The Rose Day Cream as I mentioned before is very rich. It's actually great to use as a night cream if you find it a bit too heavy for the day time. But for dry skin I'd recommend it for both day and night. For day time there are a few options. There is a very thin moisturizer , The Moisturizing Day Cream, and there is a lighter version of The Rose Day Cream which is The Rose Day Cream Light. Just remember like the cleansers when applying these creams you want to work them in a bit more than a regular cream because of the essential oils and other natural ingredients which can sit on the surface of the skin if not rubbed in thoroughly.

4. An eye cream is important but you may prefer light or heavy hydration. That's all individual. The Eye Cream is great for daytime and works well with eye make up. A little goes a long way. Just apply a dot under each eye and tap in with the surface of your ring finger. The Eye Balm, which has a similar consistency to a lip balm, is great for those of us who want maximum hydration but it does not work well with makeup. Although they suggest not to use the balm at night, that is when I've found it the most beneficial because it took about 8 hours for my skin to absorb it fully without a greasy residue left under my eyes. I've used it during the day when I'm at home doing things around the house and it's very soothing but personally I found it quite shiny so I choose not to wear it outside.

This cosmetic company has many other products to try. They have sunscreen, body wash, lip balm, body oils, body powder and a line of makeup. For more mature skin, they have two Regenerating products: a serum to be used after cleansing and a day cream as a regular moisturizer.

To be honest I'm not as thrilled with a lot of their makeup as I am with their skin care. What I can recommend is their loose powder, mascara, lip liners, and lipsticks. There is a product in the skincare line which to me serves more as a part of the make up regimen. It is the Toned Day Cream. It moisturizes and gives the skin a glow but because it has a tint, it results in more of a sun-kissed look as well as a shimmery even tone. I would recommend using it under liquid foundation. My preference is to use it over the nose and cheeks to look as though I've spent the day in the sun.

This line is the easiest to find and use as your introduction to clean cosmetics. You can always find it at Wholefoods/Body but many of your local health food stores carry it or would order it for you. So far, I've turned almost all of my clients on to the Rose Day Cream. I use it a lot under make up because of the flawless, dewy hydrated look it gives. Not only does it look great in person, but it photographs wonderfully.

My Mom: The strongest most inspiring woman in my life

I turned my mom on to La Bella Donna Mineral Cosmetics a few years ago just because I thought she'd like it. These days, for health reasons; being a Breast Cancer SURVIVOR, as well as for good skin maintenance, she only uses green cosmetics/skincare. Even though she uses products from a few different green makeup/skincare lines, here's what she had to say about La Bella Donna specifically and a few pics of her applying makeup....just to show you that you don't need a professional to do your makeup all the time...it's easy to get some advise and then do it yourself...:)


"Over ten years ago, my daughter Anita had her first job in make up and she began teaching me about products and more current applications of foundation, powder, blush, eye shadows, mascara, lipsticks and lip liners. I had been using very simple techniques that had not changed all that much since the late 1960s and early 1970s although I was now middle aged, gray and my coloring had naturally changed. I knew I needed a new look. Because Anita had become a professional make up artist, I relied upon her to help me with color and product selection as well as to give me advice about a skin care regimen. Using the techniques I had learned and the palettes that she created for me, I developed a daily make up and skin care routine. As a professor of theater, I knew that I was always “performing” in front of my students and wanted to appear my best. Anita helped me achieve that result.
Over 18 months ago I was diagnosed with bilateral breast cancer. I had done a bit of research about what needed to change in my diet as well as my skin care and cosmetic regimen. Clearly all the literature indicated that there were certain substances to avoid to aid in preventing recurrence. Because my cancers were 95 – 100% hormone receptors, estrogen and progestin were absolutely on the list and I also learned that I should avoid cosmetic products (skin care creams, moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, and make up) containing parabens.
The first thing I did, even before my surgery, was to consult Anita about green or at least paraben-free make up lines she would recommend to replace those that I had been currently using. She took me to the La Bella Donna counter at Bergdorf’s and chose mineral foundation powder, pressed powder, blush, and several eye shadow palettes—one for every day use and one for evening wear—as well as a range of lipstick colors. While the color choices were not extensive, there were enough to give me a variety of looks. The products felt good on my skin, were easy to apply and blend, and still allowed me to feel confident that I looked my best at work as well as when I went out for the evening. I’ve been a customer for this make up line ever since."
Andrea Nouryeh 2010

Article I wrote Last year for Fit and Pregnancy Magazine: They didn't publish it so here it is....

Makeup and Healthy Skin for Mom's to Be by Anita Nouryeh (makeup artist www.anitanouryeh.net)

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When I started as a professional make up artist, I never thought I'd arrive at using and promoting organic products. But, as they say, "everything happens for a reason," and my reason resulted from my own skincare quest. I have struggled myself for years, searching for the perfect gentle yet hydrating moisturizer to soothe the dry, red, long term after-effects of a second-degree sun burn I got when I was on a trip in Disneyworld at age 8 or 9. There were products that hydrated my skin but had too much fragrance, causing my asthma to act up. There were moisturizers that felt great right after my cleansing regimen but within ten minutes my skin would feel dry again. There were product lines that had so much alcohol in their skincare that my skin would turn bright red. Only a heavy layer of full coverage foundation would tone it down enough to look presentable at work and this inevitably gave way to breakouts. Then finally I caught wind of some other make up artists at work talking about Mineral makeup, specifically a line called La Bella Donna. So I went to investigate. Not only did it look natural and flawless, it was so easy to work with. Then something even more amazing happened, it actually started to help heal the cystic acne spots I'd begun to develop. From then on I was hooked. I've used it in photoshoots and on brides. It photographs beautifully. From there I thought, "I should look for skin care with the same healing properties. It must exist if this stuff does." And it does.

These days we are constantly dieting. Or we are reading new articles about healthy foods to increase our metabolisms or flatten our abs or improve our bone strength. And women, especially pregnant women, are extremely cautious and aware of everything they eat and drink. We take vitamin and mineral supplements, we keep journals or food logs, and we hire nutritionists to help us make better food choices. But we never really stop to think about what we are putting ON our bodies. According to Dr. Mercola, "women who use makeup on a daily basis can absorb almost five pounds of chemicals into their bodies each year" (Mercola.com). That's a little scary when you stop and really think about it. These chemicals, including parabens "have been noted as showing up in breast cancer samples." (Mercola.com)

Just as we have had to learn to read our nutrition facts on the back of our food labels, we must now take note and read the labels on our skin care and cosmetics. We must be aware of the fact that just because the word "mineral" is used to describe the particular product we may be purchasing, this does not mean that there aren't still harmful chemicals used as ingredients as well. Sometimes the word "mineral" can be used to describe how the powder was actually milled in the factory, creating a mineralized texture, not because there are mineral ingredients. Or they can use the word mineral because there is a tiny percentage of a mineral compound such as Titanium Dioxide ( a natural SPF/sunblock) at the very bottom of the ingredients label..

Now, the info I'm providing here can apply to all makeup and skin care users, but I want to focus specifically on the need for pregnant women to maintain as healthy a beauty regimen as possible. So to help you read make up and skin care labels for what to avoid, here are some recommendations to get you started on finding out more about the products you are currently using.

This list of chemicals has been selected from The Environmental Working Group’s website: www.ewg.org . Besides the problems listed here below, the EWG website links some of these chemicals to cancer among other long term affects.

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate-contains Arsenic, lead, heavy metals, causes developmental/ reproductive toxicity

BHA (a carcinogen)

DMDM Hydantoin ( contains formaldihyde)

FD&C Dyes- developmental/reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity

Fragrance- Allergies/immunetoxicity

Oryza Sativa (rice bran oil)- contains pesticides

Polyethylene- organ system toxicity

Parabens including: Butylparaben, Ethylparaben- human skin toxicant, disruption of endocrine system, allergies/immunetoxicity

Talc- contains Abestiform fibers, affects allergies/immunetoxicity

You can find more extensive lists and information at The Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database: (www.ewg.org) It's an incredibly thorough website with a plethora of information about all personal care products.

Now that I've outlined what chemicals to avoid, and given you further resources to investigate, I want to assure you that you don't have to give up on make up. There are plenty of alternatives to your favorite skincare and make up product lines that are guaranteed to be organic, and free of these chemicals. To provide you with recommendations for a non-harmful beauty regimen, here is a list of safe cosmetics and skincare products that I have tried and really enjoyed using.

Lipsticks/Lipgloss: Suki Color Pure, La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Lavera, ZuZu Luxe, Primitive

Eyeshadow, EyeLiner, Mascara: La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Dr. Hauschka, ZuZu Luxe, Suki Color Pure

Foundation/Powder/ Concealer: La Bella Donna, Mineral Fusion, Lavera, Cover FX

Nail Polish: No Miss Nail Polish and Remover (free of formaldehyde, Toluene, and dibutyl-phalate )

Skin Care: Dr. Hauschka, Suki Color Pure, Organic Apoteke

Most of these products (except La Bella Donna and Cover FX) can be found in the Whole Body section at Whole Foods. Check your local health food store as well. More and more small health food stores are beginning to carry Dr. Hauschka products among others. To order products on-line, here are the URLs:

www.sukicolor.com

www.lavera.com

www.primitivemakeup.com

www.mineralfusioncosmetics.com

ZuZu luxe:www.veganessentials.com and www.n101.com)

www.drhauschka.com

www.organicapoteke.com

www.coverfx.com ( also available at Sephora ) a medical mineral line. Used in hospitals for burn victims & skin discoloration from loss of pigmentation. Also used for HD television by professional Makeup artists.

www.Labelladonna.com (also available at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC)

La Bella Donna is a mineral line made up of 4 minerals: Micronized Titanium Dioxide-non chemical sunblock SPF 20; Iron Oxides- the source of color; Bismuth Oxychloride- anti-inflammatory properties ; and Zinc Oxide- anti-inflammatory properties (soothing to the skin). This line is particularly one of my favorites because I freelanced as a makeup artist for them for a brief period at Bergdorf Goodman. This makeup is luxurious. It is absolutely gorgeous on. It photographs well, it lasts all day and it looks natural. It heals your skin while you wear it. Who could ask for anything more from cosmetics, right?!

In today's world, most pregnant women are working into their eighth month and need to present themselves professionally. So, not using make up because of the potential harm it could do to your unborn child may not be a realistic option. And no woman, whether pregnant or not, should have to relinquish her beauty regimen. Instead, all you need is to revamp your make up kit with products that won't harm and might even help your skin. They will help ensure a healthy baby and a healthier mommy.

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Photoshoot with Tori Quisling: www.yourpsychicself.net

All Makeup and photos by anita nouryeh using Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics.........N0 retouching......

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics

Last week when I did the makeup and photo shoot with Donna Sonkin, the foundation/powder I used was from the line, Youngblood. I was so happy with how amazing and flawless her skin looked (especially since the photos are the real deal...no retouching....) that I decided to go ahead and purchase more of the makeup and try all of it.

Here's what I learned:

Primer/liquid foundation/loose powder: Amazing! Beautiful!!! The one thing I will say is that I used the foundation with the primer and I also tried it on it's own with a moisturizer from Dr. Hauschka, and I have to be honest and say the primer is there for a reason. The end result for that flawless look is smoother and has a more perfect finish using the primer than it does without it. So even though we all try and pinch our pennies when we are buying cosmetics, don't skimp on the primer. You'll be so much happier having it be a part of the makeup application.

Pressed Setting Powder: It's effective for sure, but for everyday use I would say use it once and then find something like blot papers to absorb your oil throughout the day rather than touching up with the setting powder throughout the day. It's very absorbent and can look dry/caky if used too often or with too heavy of a hand in the application. I'm assuming it was probably created for more of a Television/Film makeup application than for an everyday makeup. That doesn't mean you can't use it, just use it sparingly. Instead, as an alternate, I would use the loose HD powder that I used on Donna. The finish is the perfect balance of not too shiny and not too caky. I would call it a satin finish. My favorite way for skin to look, just a wee bit dewy but not over the top....

Eyeshadow: So far I've only tried the standard eyeshadows. They do carry loose powder pigments but when I was shopping I figured I should try the regular eyeshadows first. The consistency is soft and blends well. The pigmentation is strong so you don't have to pack it on. I would say the color selection is not fantastic. Don't get me wrong, the are beautiful, but I wasn't blown away. I guess I was expecting to see something I've never seen before but that wasn't the case. Having said that though the shadows are very natural and pretty and they photograph well, for sure...and they are practical....you'll definitely get good bank for your buck because they are colors you can use everyday and then add one or two darker colors to change the look from day to night relatively easily....

Blush/Bronzer: The cheek colors are gorgeous!!! Love 'em!!!

Lipstick/Lipgloss: I tried about 5 lipgloss colors and 4 Lipsticks. As I said about the eyeshadows, the colors aren't anything I've never seen but they are VERY pretty!!! They look natural with a "pop"....they look great in person and in photos and you can easily mix them to create more colors, which is always my favorite thing to do!

Mascara: Not my fave....kinda clumpy and didn't do anything as far as volumizing or lengthening...I basically felt like the mascara tinted my eyelashes and that's it....not worth the $....

To conclude, I think Youngblood's strength is definitely their foundation/skin colors. They have a great variety of skin tones so that everyone can use it. So far I've used it on myself, on Donna and on a client yesterday and I'm so excited by it!!! Check this line out, I guarantee you'll find more than one product you'll love!!!

Beauty Shoot using Tarte Cosmetics and Youngblood Cosmetics

All Makeup and Photos by Anita
No retouching.....



Before



All Photos
Using
Youngblood Primer Foundation & Powder
&
Tarte Eye, cheek, Lip

Tarte Cosmetics

Tarte: A full take

So as promised, I went back to Sephora to check out the full line of Tarte Cosmetics. I was pleasantly surprised to see that almost their entire line is now petro-chemical, paraben, gmo and sulfate free. The boxes that are within that genre are marked "health couture".... but I must admit that almost everything had that label. I have to believe that they are phasing out the old stuff and soon the line will be entirely natural. I have tried almost everything in the line and I have to say generally I am extremely happy with almost everything I've used on myself and on clients.

As you can see from the pictures in my previous post, Tarte photographs well and give you a flawless look that is relatively easy to achieve.

Eyeshadows: The color selection is well rounded. They have a variety of palettes with different color schemes....such as warmer soft colors and more neutral colors. A lot of the shadows have shimmer in them, some are more shimmery and sparkly than others. There are matte shadows in the line just not quite as many, which in reality is the case in a lot of makeup lines, green or mainstream. But the secret to eyeshadow with shimmer is that it's absolutely age appropriate for anyone, the adjustment for age/sophistication is just how you apply the rest of your makeup to compensate. So for example, someone with more advanced skin or someone who is a bit more conservative with their style could use a shimmery eyeshadow and then make sure that nothing else in the makeup application on the face has shimmer. In other words, make sure your blush/bronzer is matte and your lipstick has no frost or sparkle in it. Then you will have a well balanced and beautiful makeup and still feel like yourself.

Blush/Bronzer: The one problem with the powder blushes and bronzers is the consistency. The powder blushes are extremely powdery and do not blend very well. The colors are relatively generic and the selection is not that great. But it's workable, so the palettes that they make that have eyeshadows, blushes, bronzer and lipstick all in one are definitely usable but the blushes are just not my favorite.

The powder bronzer has a lot of gold undertone in it. On some skin it looks gorgeous but what I noticed on myself is that it looked dirty and a bit orange, very similar to the spray tanned women I've seen or worked on when they've had too much sprayed on.

The cheek stain on the other hand is amazing! I love the colors....they look so natural and they are easy to blend in to the skin looking as if the color is coming up from underneath.

Lipstick/lipgloss: The colors are really pretty even though they don't have an extensive variety the way MAC or Chanel or any other mainstream makeup line does. But having said that I found 6 or 7 colors that I really liked so I'm confident that anyone could find at least one gloss and one lipstick that they would feel fits their style and looks beautiful.

Parabens

here's a quick read of what Parabens are and the controversy surrounding the use of them in cosmetics. Technically they are preservatives, and the controversy is similar to that surrounding alternative medicine. Pharmaceutical companies are threatened by alternative sources of medicine/preventative medicine because ultimately they think it picks their pockets, so to speak. The same is here with potentially harmful chemicals is makeup/skincare. Those cosmetic companies in the mainstream are going to argue the validity of these studies and discoveries because of the fact that the information can harm their profits. Perhaps nothing is certain but studies are showing enough proof of how Parabens and other chemicals, which i will get in to later, are if nothing else at least contributing to the rise in illness's such as breast cancer.

Breast cancer

Several peer-reviewed studies have reported results that indirectly support a correlation between the presence of parabens and the occurrence of breast cancer. High levels of parabens have been detected in breast tumors,^[11][12] with one UK-based study finding high concentrations of parabens in eighteen out of twenty samples of breast tumors.^[12]These findings, along with the demonstrated ability of parabens to mimic estrogen, a hormone known to play a role in the development of breast cancers,^[12] have led some scientists to conclude that the presence of parabens does correlate with the occurrence of breast cancer,^[6][13] and to call for investigation into whether or not a causal link exists.^[14] The lead researcher of the UK study, molecular biologist Philippa Darbre, reported that the ester-bearing form of the parabens found in the tumors indicate that they came from something applied to the skin, such as an underarm deodorant, cream or body spray, and stated that the results helped to explain why up to 60% of all breast tumors are found in just one-fifth of the breast - the upper-outer quadrant, nearest the underarm.^[6] "From this research it is not possible to say whether parabens actually caused these tumors, but they may certainly be associated with the overall rise in breast cancer cases. Given that breast cancer is a large killer of women and a very high percentage of young women use underarm deodorants, I think we should be carrying out properly funded, further investigations into parabens and where they are found in the body," says Dr. Philip Harvey, an editor of the Journal of Applied Toxicology, which published the research.^[6] A 2004 study at Northwestern University found that an earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis related to more frequent use of antiperspirants/deodorants and underarm shaving.^[15] "I personally feel there is a very strong correlation between the underarm hygiene habits and breast cancer," said immunologist Dr. Kris McGrath, the author of the study.^[13]

This research has fueled a popular belief that the parabens in underarm deodorants and other cosmetics can migrate into breast tissue and contribute to the development of tumors.

No direct evidence of a causal link between parabens and cancer, however, has been shown. A 2005 review of the data available at that time concluded "it is biologically implausible that parabens could increase the risk of any estrogen-mediated endpoint, including effects on the male reproductive tract or breast cancer" and that "worst-case daily exposure to parabens would present substantially less risk relative to exposure to naturally occurring endocrine active chemicals in the diet such as the phytoestrogendaidzein."^[16] The American Cancer Society also concludes that there is currently insufficient scientific evidence to support a claim that use of cosmetics such as antiperspirants increase an individual's risk of developing breast cancer; the ACS, however, goes on to state that "larger studies are needed to find out what effect, if any, parabens might have on breast cancer risk.^[17]

While current studies do not causally link parabens with tumors, neither do these studies demonstrate that parabens are safe; the long-term health effects of exposure to parabens are essentially unknown.^[18]

[edit]Estrogenic activity

Animal experiments have shown that parabens have weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens.^[19] In an in vivo study, the effect of butylparaben was determined to be approximately 100,000 times weaker than that of estradiol, and was only observed at a dose level approximately 25,000 times higher than the level typically used to preserve products.^[20]The study also found that the in vivo estrogenic activity of parabens is reduced by about three orders of magnitude compared to in vitro activity.

The estrogenic activity of parabens increase with the length of the alkyl group. It is believed that propylparaben is estrogenic to a certain degree as well,^[21] though this is expected to be less than butylparaben by virtue of its less lipophilic nature. Since it can be concluded that the estrogenic activity of butylparaben is negligible under normal use, the same should be concluded for shorter analogs.

Some estrogens are known to drive the growth of tumors; however the estrogenic activity and mutagenic activity of estrogens are not the same, with the latter dependent on free radical chemistry and not estrogen receptor activity.^[22] Nonetheless, this study has elicited some concern about the use of butylparaben, and to a lesser extent other parabens as well, in cosmetics and antiperspirants. A 2005 safety assessment of parabens concluded that cosmetics containing parabens do not, on the basis of currently available evidence, pose a health risk; because of the low doses involved and the low probability that parabens will penetrate into the tissue, remain intact, and accumulate there.^[7]

[edit]Sun exposure

Studies indicate that methylparaben applied on the skin reacts with UVB leading to increased skin aging and DNA damage^[23][24].

[edit]Regulation

Nevertheless, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) stated in 2006 that the available data on parabens do not enable a decisive response to the question of whether propyl, butyl and isobutyl paraben can be safely used in cosmetic products at individual concentrations up to 0.4%, which is the allowed limit in the EU.^[25]

[edit]Controversy

The above-mentioned studies have resulted in scientific debate that in turn led to popular controversy largely propagated by mass e-mail.^[26][27] The controversy has led to some concerns (both over possible carcinogenicity^[28] as well as estrogenic effects^[29]) being expressed over the continued use of parabens as preservatives.

The mainstream cosmetic industry believes that parabens, like most cosmetic ingredients, are safe based on their long term use and safety record and recent scientific studies.^[30] Public interest organizations which raise awareness about cosmetic ingredients believe that further research is necessary to determine the safety of parabens (see also precautionary principle).^[28] The concerns about endocrine disruptors have led consumers and companies searching for paraben free alternatives.^[31] The ingredient grapefruit seed extract that is promoted as a natural preservative was identified with the preservative methylparaben.^[1]

[edit]